Evaluation of Hair Fiber and Sensory Properties following the Application of Conditioners containing Jojoba and Coconut Oils

Authors

  • Alexandre dos Santos Silva Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Institute of Environmental, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Diadema, SP, Brazil , Federal University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Carolina Rufino da Silva Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Institute of Environmental, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Diadema, SP, Brazil , Federal University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Claudineia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Department of Pharmacy, University of São Paulo (USP), São Paulo, SP, Brazil , University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Michelli Ferreira Dario Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Department of Pharmacy, University of São Paulo (USP), São Paulo, SP, Brazil , University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Newton Andreo-Filho Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Institute of Environmental, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Diadema, SP, Brazil , Federal University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Patricia dos Santos Lopes Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Institute of Environmental, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Diadema, SP, Brazil , Federal University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Maria Valéria Robles Velasco Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Department of Pharmacy, University of São Paulo (USP), São Paulo, SP, Brazil , University of São Paulo image/svg+xml
  • Vânia Rodrigues Leite-Silva Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Institute of Environmental, Chemical and Pharmaceutical Sciences, Federal University of São Paulo (UNIFESP), Diadema, SP, Brazil; Therapeutics Research Group, Frazer Institute, Faculty of Medicine, The University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD 4102, Australia , Federal Institute of São Paulo image/svg+xml , The University of Queensland image/svg+xml https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5913-1425

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.1590/s2175-97902026e24875

Abstract

The use of natural ingredients, such as vegetable oils, in hair care products has gained significant attention due to their conditioning and protective properties. This study evaluates the impact of chemical treatments on hair fiber integrity and assesses the effectiveness of conditioners containing jojoba and coconut oils. The investigation employed advanced analytical techniques, including the Dia-stron® MTT175, SAMBA® Hair System, Attension® tensiometer, and Olympus transmitted light microscopy. Sensory analysis was conducted using descriptive and discriminative ranking methods. Results indicated that bleaching followed by dyeing increased combing resistance and friction while reducing shine and hydrophobicity. Conditioners mitigated these effects, except for the jojoba oil formulation, which did not significantly reduce combing resistance. Shine remained unaffected by all conditioners, though formulations with vegetable oils enhanced the water contact angle of hair fibers, indicating improved hydrophobicity. Optical microscopy confirmed that conditioners smoothed the hair cuticles. Sensory evaluation revealed that participants preferred conditioners containing vegetable oils over the base formulation. These findings suggest that incorporating vegetable oils into hair conditioners can enhance hair fiber properties and consumer preference.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

Abelan US, Oliveira de AC, Cacoci ESP, Martins TEA, Giacon VM, Velasco MVR, Lima CRRC. Potential use of essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological hair products: A review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21(4):1407–18.

Coderch L, Oliver MA, Martínez V, Manich AM, Rubio L, Martí M. Exogenous and endogenous lipids of human hair. Skin Res Technol. 2017;23(4):479-85.

Colenci AVP. Efeito de uma formulação contendo o biopolímero quitosana sobre a fibra capilar caucasiana [Internet] [text]. Universidade de São Paulo; 2007 [citado 11 de setembro de 2024]; Disponível em: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/82/82131/tde-14022008-090538/.

Gabarra Almeida Leite M, Campos P. Development and efficacy evaluation of hair care formulations containing vegetable oils and silicone. Int J Phytocosmetics Nat Ingred. 2018;5:0–9.

Gao T, Pereira A, Zhu S. Study of hair shine and hair surface smoothness. J Cosmet Sci. 2009;60(2):187–97.

Ghannam MT, Selim MYE, Ansari AT, Binamro A, Almansoori M, Abdallah S. Flow characteristics of jojoba and other oil blends for skin treatment fluids. Int J Thermofluids. 1o de abril de 2023. 2023;18:100362.

Halal J. Milady - Tricologia: química cosmética capilar. 2a edição. Cengage Learning; 2016.

Kim MM. Skin Research and Technology. Eff Procyandin Oligomers Oxidative Hair Damage. 2011;17(1):108–18.

LaTorre C, Bhushan B. Investigation of scale effects and directionality dependence on friction and adhesion of human hair using AFM and macroscale friction test apparatus. Ultramicroscopy. 2006;106(8–9):720–34.

Lefaudeux N, Lechocinski N, Clemenceau P, Breugnot S. New luster formula for the characterization of hair tresses using polarization imaging. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2010;32(2):153-69.

Mordor Intelligence. Análise de tamanho e participação do mercado emoliente – Tendências e previsões de crescimento; 2024–2029 [Internet]. Mordor Intelligence; 2019 Disponível em: https://www.mordorintelligence.com/pt/industry-reports/emollient- market.

Mordor Intelligence. Cuidado capilar Tamanho do mercado | Mordor Intelligence [Internet]; 2024 Disponível em: https://www.mordorintelligence.com/pt/industry-reports/hair-care- market-industry.

Muñoz AM. Sensory evaluation in quality control: An overview, new developments and future opportunities. Food Qual Prefer [Internet]. 2002 [citado 11 de setembro de 2024]; Disponível em: https://www.academia.edu/11176044/Sensory_evaluation_in_quality_control_an_overview_new_developments_and_future_opportunities;13(6):329–39.

Oliveira de RAG, Zanoni TB, Bessegato GG, Oliveira DP, Umbuzeiro GA, Zanoni MVB. The chemistry and toxicity of hair dyes. Quim Nova. 2014;37:1037–46.

Ribeiro AC, Souza VM, Antunes Jr D. Tricologia e cosmética capilar: Das alterações aos tratamentos. 1a ed. Editora Cia Farmacêutica; 2021.

Sá Dias, TC de. Avaliação in vitro do efeito de diferentes processos de Alisamento químico/térmico na fibra capilar [Internet] [text]. Universidade de São Paulo; 2015 [citado 11 de setembro de 2024]. Disponível em: http://www.teses.usp.br/teses/disponiveis/9/9139/tde-07122016-111738/.

Samet AV, Shevchenko OG, Rusak VV, Chartov EM, Myshlyavtsev AB, Rusanov DA, et al. Antioxidant activity of natural Allylpolyalkoxybenzene plant essential oil constituents. J Nat Prod. 2019;82(6):1451–8.

Sanches P de S. Desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas contendo pigmento natural obtido de Arthrospira platensis e avaliação do efeito na fibra capilar antes e após irradiação ultravioleta. 2019 [citado 12 de setembro de 2024]; Disponível em: https://app.uff.br/riuff/handle/1/10905.

Santana I, Silva da TT, Mulder AP. Coqueiro (Cocos nucifera L.) e produtos alimentícios derivados: Uma revisão sobre aspectos de produção, tecnológicos e nutricionais. Em editora Científica Digital; 2020 [citado 12 de setembro de 2024] p. 80-101 Disponível em: https://www.editoracientifica.com.br/artigos/coqueiro-cocos-nucifera-l-e-produtos-alimenticios-derivados-uma-revisao-sobre-aspectos-de-producao-tecnologicos-e- nutricionais.

Sureka P, Agrawal T, Majumder S, Ritambhara K. A method to measure oil penetration into hair and correlation to tensile strength. Int J Trichology. 2022;14(4):128–34.

Tang W, Zhang SG, Zhang JK, Chen S, Zhu H, Ge SR. Ageing effects on the diameter, nanomechanical properties and tactile perception of human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2016;38(2):155–63.

Tate M, Kamath Y, Ruetsch S, Weigmann H. Quantification and prevention of hair damage. J Soc Cosmet Chem [Internet]; 1993 [citado 12 de setembro de 2024]; Disponível em: https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Quantification-and-prevention-of-hair-damage-Tate-Kamath/b0a1694651ff1f5e00cd32d26ee8d5d00a9dec9.

Velasco MVR, Balogh TS, Kagiyama EJW, Dario MF, Gama da RM, Bedin V, et al. Influence of Brazilian vegetable oils on mechanical resistence of hair fiber. Biomed Biopharm Res. 2015;12(1):99–106.

Velasco MVR, Dias TCS, Freitas AZD, Júnior NDV, Pinto CASO, Kaneko TM, Baby, A. R. Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2009;45(1):153–62.

Wortmann FJ, Schwan-Jonczyk A, In cooperation with the working group Hair Care Products of the DGK (Deutsche Gesellschaft fuer Wissenschaftliche und Angewandte Kosmetik e.V.: German Association for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics). Investigating hair properties relevant for hair 'handle'. Part I: Hair diameter, bending and frictional properties. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2006;28(1):61–8.

Downloads

Published

2026-08-18

Data Availability Statement

All data is available within the article or its supplementary materials. 

Issue

Vol. 62 (2026)

Section

Article

License

Copyright (c) 2026 Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

All content of the journal, except where identified, is licensed under a Creative Commons attribution-type BY.

The on-line journal has open and free access.

How to Cite

Evaluation of Hair Fiber and Sensory Properties following the Application of Conditioners containing Jojoba and Coconut Oils. (2026). Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 62, e24875. https://doi.org/10.1590/s2175-97902026e24875

Funding data