Iansã's acará at the Saint Barbara festival

brief considerations on the foods of a popular religious festival in Salvador, Brazil

Abstract

This article approaches the eating habits at the centenary festival of Saint Barbara, which takes place annually in Salvador, Brazil, on December 4th. In addition to addressing the traditional caruru offered in honor of the saint, the text aims to highlight the presence of the acará in the celebrations. Thanks to the Afro-Diasporic influence, the white-European original devotion gained elements of African origins when arriving in the Bahian capital, and palm oil- based foods are undisputed proof. And even though Afro-Catholic syncretism has brought Saint Barbara closer to the Iansã orixá, the deities are revered with different foods. In clarifying this apparent divergence, the work demonstrates the importance of acarajé at the December 4th festival and the African heritage of celebrating with food. To assist in the discussion about popular parties in Salvador, Afro-Bahian cuisine and religious syncretism, the text dialogued with authors such as Edilece Couto (2015), Manuel Querino (2006) and Pierre Verger (1999). Based on literature review, journal research and participant observation, the article highlights the relevance of commensality in the popular religious festival that began in the 17th century and remains alive today. Thus, the text shows how certain foods were consolidated as constitutive elements of the Saint Barbara festival in Salvador.