Revista Ingesta is an electronic academic journal, produced by postgraduate students who are also members of the Laboratory of Historical Studies on Drugs and Food (LEHDA), in the History Department of the Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas from Universidade de São Paulo (USP), Brazil. Published semiannually, the journal aims to spread works in this expanding research area and to contribute to its consolidation. We publish articles, book reviews and thematic dossiers in Portuguese, Spanish, and English, produced by postgraduate students and professors in the area of History and related sciences.
Universidade de São Paulo. Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas
1. Authors retain the copyright and grant the journal the right of first publication, with the work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which allows the sharing of work with acknowledgment of authorship and initial publication in this journal. 2. Authors are authorized to take additional contracts separately, for non-exclusive distribution of the version of the work published in this journal (eg. publish in institutional repository or as a book chapter), with acknowledgment of authorship and initial publication in this journal. 3. Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their work online (eg. in institutional repositories or on their personal page) at any point before or during the editorial process, as this can generate productive changes as well as increase the impact and the citation of the published work (See The Effect of Free Access).
Images of the Future: relating being and eating in the history of food
The book under review, Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food, by Warren Belasco, explores the theme of the future of food, retracing the historical arguments and the way these discussions were structured. It also contextualizes them in a wider cultural debate with complex political and economic linkages. One interesting feature in Belasco’s writing – one of the founders of the “Food Studies” – is the way he develops a genealogy of contemporary issues, unrooting hidden prejudices and assumptions that manifest themselves in any modern discussion about the future of humanity. Starting on food, this plot ends up weaving together the most diverse themes referring to a chain of historical associations between what we are and what we eat. So intimate to humans, food has permeated central debates about social organization and production, and has populated the images of power and strength of empires, as well as the utopian dreams of social emancipation. In his work, Belasco succeeds in showing that the construction of a political and cultural hegemony has been historically coupled to a food hegemony that has spread Western habits of meat consumption, and in reconstructing the associations between structural racism, sexism and classism through food issues.
Copyright (c) 2020 Matheus Henrique da Mota Ferreira https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0
The effects of NAFTA on the destruction of Mexico to justify transnational trade policies and changes in food culture
Eating NAFTA: Trade, Food Policies and the Destruction of Mexico (2018), by Alyshia Gálvez, published in English by the University of California Press, and still without translation in Brazil, clarifies in detail and in a timely manner the relationship between loss biodiversity, migration, changes in Mexican food culture, diet-related illnesses and international trade agreements. Focusing on the North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta), in force since 1994, it analyzes the two decades following the agreement, showing its impact on the lives of Mexicans living on both sides of the border. In addition to the work reviewed, this text presents the latest developments that led to the implications and alteration of NAFTA, transforming it into the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA).
Copyright (c) 2020 Ewerton Reubens Coelho-Costa
We reviewed Iliana Regan’s recent book, Burn the Place: A Memoir. Regan is an American cheffe who published a memoir telling her life story and describing what motivated her to be a cook in an unique and inspired way. This memoir raises several modern life topics related to food and gastronomy such as memory, affection, tradition, sexism, drug abuse, creativity, and people management. The book is a relevant candidate as bibliographic resource for further work and debate surrounding these questions.
Copyright (c) 2020 Arthur Romanzini Lazzarotto, Deise Cristina Schell
The role of the food offerings in the maintenance of the God’s Wives of Amun’s status (8th-6th centuries BC)
The food offering ritual is very present in the Egyptian resources and it had the main aim to ensure the supply to the gods and the deceased individuals. However, this rite was also utilized in the iconographic representations by some priestesses known as “the God’s Wives of Amun” to keep and propagate their social, political and religious mightiness in the region of Thebes. Through the iconographic analysis of four images from two chapels destined to the cult of Osiris in Karnak, the tomb-chapels of the god’s wives in Medinet Habu and one residential edifice of one of these priestesses in Naga Malgata, this article aims to analyze the role of the food offerings in the maintenance and consolidation of the god’s wives’ status in the 8th-6th centuries BC.
Copyright (c) 2020 André Shinity Kawaminami
Among ingredients, cuisines, and affects: sociocultural aspects of a life dedicated to food
It can be said that to some extent all human beings are affected by food. Among different affinity intensities with food, there is a group that stands out for nurturing a more intense relationship with it: the cooks. Cooks can be seen as humans who walk their lives along with food and dedicate themselves to it daily. This joint journey is part of a historically constructed journey of life, made up of many moments of culinary experience, as well as several symbolic and cultural aspects that precede living the kitchen. In this sense, turning attention to sociocultural and symbolic issues that encompass food is essential to understand how the relationship between cooks and food is built. Cooks were not born with an innate connection to food, they created a powerful affection for food throughout their lives. So how is this close relationship between human cooks and food established? What sociocultural and symbolic aspects help to build this mesh of affects? This article turns to the theoretical analysis of three aspects that are considered important to this relation: the memory, the commensality, and the affection. Food leaves trails in the lives of human beings, it creates powerful memories in the imaginary, gather people together, and evokes everlasting feelings. Reporting these broader aspects is describing a part of the history of food that is fundamental for all human beings, especially cooks.
Copyright (c) 2020 Isabella Altoé, Elaine de Azevedo, Profa. Dra.
“They want to starve”: doctors and “beasts” in the dietetics of the Hospital de Caridade Juvino Barreto in Natal (1909-1927)
This article aims to discuss some aspects of institutional feeding at the Hospital de Caridade Juvino Barreto (HCJB), in the city of Natal, between 1909, the date of the creation of the hospital, and 1927, when its administration passed into the hands of the Hospital Assistance Society (HAS). Exploring diverse documentary sources (hospital archives, press articles, medical memoirs, messages from government authorities), we seek to understand the process of constituting a “hospital dietetics” at HCJB in the first three decades of the 20th century, analyzing, for this, the relationship between doctors and patients based on the dietary practices in the hospital, which led us to examine the “spatialities of eating” within the institution (kitchen, cafeteria, wards), the body of agents responsible for the production, circulation and consumption of food, medical-dietary prescriptions and the behavior of patients facing these dietary regimes. The study pointed out that the disciplining of the HCJB dietary regime had to be built on the difficult relationship between the determination of medical theory, aspects of the local economy and food habits of the population, often producing conflicts in institutional and institutional food arrangements, and, consequently, in medical therapy itself.
Famine and commercial networks in the Parisian Basin (8th - 11th centuries)
The Early Middle Ages were understood by historians until the middle of the 20th century as a long period of crisis and decline, not only due to multiple periods of famine, but also for economic and political reasons. The 9th century, in particular, brings an alarming number of written reports related to food crises throughout its length. This pessimistic interpretation of the period as a time marked by the decay has been contested in recent decades, to a large extent, with the contribution of Archaeology. With a less negative outlook in relation to the medieval economy, there were also questions about the “veracity” of food crises, or at least its darkest aspects, such as cannibalism of survival, its wide extent and very high mortality. This article aims to carry out an analysis of the food situation in the Parisian Basin between the 8th and 11th centuries, taking as a starting point the remains found in a site located 20 kilometres from Paris, La Confiserie. And starting from it, make comparisons with two other contemporary occupations that developed in the same region: Les Ruelles, in the current city of Serris, and La Chapelle / La Croix Verte, in Mesnil-Aubry.
Dossier II International Symposium on Food Research
Copyright (c) 2020 Gabriel Rodrigues Sanches Cordeiro
Vegetarianism far beyond the plate: ethics, health, lifestyles, and identification processes in dialogue
The aim of this study was to identify ethical, health, culture and lifestyle elements involved in opting for vegetarianism, as well as the greatest difficulties encountered by vegetarians in their daily eating practices. Data were collected through electronic survey and focus group. In addition to identification processes, topics related to cultures, sociability, food, vegetarianism, health and well-being were addressed. Two hundred and two people with good levels of education, mostly of the middle classes, answered the survey. Most responses indicated that they had a good diet, adequate weight, a healthy lifestyle and that their health and well-being improved after adopting vegetarianism. Adherence to vegetarianism occurred mainly for ethical reasons related to animal rights. The greatest difficulties resulting from the choice for vegetarianism, in terms of sociability, were due to the family environment and the lack of options in restaurants. A focus group contributed to deepen the themes. The answers suggest that the choice for vegetarianism goes beyond food and impacts on social relationships, consumption and lifestyle, taking on a political dimension that can be called food activism, as it challenges the forms of power and dialogues with new forms of interaction between individuals, society, other living beings and the environment.
Copyright (c) 2020 Camilla Horn Soares, Vanuska Lima da Silva, Divair Doneda
KFC fast-food chain and the consumption habit of fried chicken bucket in Brazil: a periodization proposal
This article’s proposal is to dwell on the implementation of the Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) American fast-food chain, specialized in fried chicken buckets, in Belo Horizonte (MG). It aims to a “periodization” of the company’s three attempts at settling itself in the country, emphasizing the diffusion and resistances of fried chicken bucket consumption. The proposal incorporates the development of national competitor chains or local establishments which mirror the KFC concept, many times preceding its appearance – that is, the habit of eating fried chicken bucket may have settled before the own chain which created it and spread it. Besides that, it is noted in the capital of Minas Gerais, a relevant number of small local restaurants specialized in fried chicken bucket, adapting its original concept before their financial, technical and organizational limitations. Finally, it is believed that these restaurants created an expressive heterogeneity of forms and flows in Belo Horizonte’s territory, empirically revealing not only the spread of a globalizing eating habit but also forms of adaptation that we name “tropical flexibility” (SANTOS, 1996).
Traditions, rituals, and food memories: the bicultural identity in children of Polish immigrants in Brazil in a non-diasporic context
The culture of the country of origin of migrant parents brings important elements for the construction of the identity of children born in the host country. This study aimed to understand which elements of Polish and Brazilian cultures were transmitted and how they influenced the construction of the identity of three children (second generation) of a Polish family established in Brazil, based on narratives of the family’s migratory trajectory, life and eating practices. Based on the content analysis, three thematic groups were identified, which pointed to two elements as the main markers of Polish identity: language and food. In everyday life, the daily characteristic Brazilian food was adopted, but Polish food is the protagonist on special dates, featuring ethnic, religious, and family traditions. Although the recipes have been modified, the rituals surrounding their preparation, consumption and conviviality are maintained and this is when Polish identity is manifested. Each child demonstrates different degrees and ways of maintaining these family “traditions”. Other cultural references, their personal trajectories and social support networks added new eating practices, although the feeling of double belonging remains in the second generation. This study allows us to understand how food culture contributes to the identity construction and food trajectory of individuals exposed to different cultures.
Sacralized grains: notes on the popular diffusion of maize from their symbolic use in religious rituals
Observing the symbolic meanings of the Brazilian maize culture unveils its importance as a food of resistance associated with a sacredness hardly visible to official historiography. From the colonizer’s perspective, maize was of little relevance other than the economic and did not rival wheat, whose symbolic value was associated with Christianity. Investigating the mentions made about maize in the book A Culinary History, organized by Flandrin and Montanari, we found the idea that in Europe maize was recommended only during periods of supply crisis. Differently, in Brazil, we note that the diffusion of maize in popular alimentation was mainly due to Afro-descendant peoples who adapted their domestic and ritualistic use. Although information on the use of food in the original religions of the native and captive peoples is rare, it was possible, through anthropological and artistic studies, to compare some current ritualistic practices inherited from the indigenous and Afro-descendant ethnic groups of the Brazilian colonial period. The comparison shows similarities between the Afro-indigenous religious rituals that point to their unity, which proved to be valuable for the survival of maize in the Brazilian diet. The study on the sacredness of maize points to ways of transmitting a food culture surrounded by clashes between its socioeconomic representations and its symbolic potentialities, both magical and poetical.
Copyright (c) 2020 Myriam Melchior, Marcella Sulis
Inequality in access to land and food and nutritional insecurity: an overview on the political, legal and institutional frameworks from the second half of the Empire to the first government of Getúlio Vargas (1850 - 1945)
The central analysis of this article is the debate of the historical frameworks in the period from 1850 to 1945, which encompasses the end of the Monarchy until the first Vargas government. This period had an impact on the development of public and social policies for the reduction of hunger and poverty in Brazil. The purpose of this reflection is to understand the permanence of a social structure that justifies the maintenance of food and nutritional insecurity of the population, which was possible through a bibliographic and documentary research. Political, legal and institutional frameworks were listed to explain the issue of access to land and the new labor relations that emerged during this period, such as the Land Law of 1850, which contributed to the transition from the export mercantile system to the political/economical capitalist model, widening inequalities in access to land and strengthening the large agrarian land properties; the 1891 Constitution, considered as a mark for agrarian oligarchies; and the first public policies on food and nutrition of the Vargas government, created by studies of social medicine that justified the phenomenon of hunger and malnutrition through the biological bias of the emerging science of nutrition, bypassing the structural issue of access to land. The final debate brings to light elements of Brazilian social formation, in order to allow the understanding of the exclusion from access to land as a structuring factor in the phenomenon of food and nutritional insecurity.
Knowledge network on quilombola food production in the IFSP Registro Campus: culture and food tradition
Ribeira valley is one the most preserved areas of the Atlantic Forest in Brazil. In this biome there are about 88 quilombola traditional communities that practice itinerant coivara agriculture. The Quilombola Traditional Agricultural System (SAT) is defined by knowledge applied in subsistence agriculture, medicine, material culture and work organizations. Initiatives like the National School Feeding Program (PNAE) and the Food Acquisition Program (PAA) provide better conditions for maintaining the livelihood of quilombola communities, ensuring greater autonomy and permanence on land. In this research, we seek to understand to what extent the efforts made by the Federal Institute of Education, Science and Technology of São Paulo (IFSP) related to these programs can help to expand the knowledge of these traditions at the institutional level. We analyzed oral sources based on the Oral History method, approaching them from the concepts of “identity” and “memory”, besides using documents produced for the recognition of the SAT as Brazilian Intangible Heritage (the SAT Dossier, and the Quilombola Cultural Inventory). We also carried out a project with students from the Sapatu quilombo, present at the campus, and, as a result, the other students got closer to the quilombola reality; the consumption of fresh food without pesticides was valued; and partnerships were encouraged in the processes of institutional food purchases – as an example, the banana provided in 2019 by PNAE came from Sapatu quilombo.
Copyright (c) 2020 IAMARA DE ALMEIDA NEPOMUCENO
“Comida de negrería”: food and slavery in the Valle del Cauca, New Granada, 1750-1851
The purpose of this article is to analyse some aspects concerning food practices of the slaves in the Cauca’s valley region, south-west in the New Granada, during the second half of the eighteenth century and the first half of the nineteenth century. This work is an attempt to understand the complex context of cultural contact produced by the Spanish colonization and the transatlantic slave trade, all of this by the food practices, cookware, food and their preparations, with information obtained through novels, travel literature and primary documents as testaments.
The praise of cachaça: the medical-naval discourse on the benefits of sugar cane brandy consumption on board Brazilian Navy ships in the 19th century
In the second half of the 19th century, some physicians from the Brazilian Navy Health Corps wrote reports about the trips they had taken on Brazilian Navy ships. In addition to presenting the description of the nosological aspects of the crews during their voyages, the surgeons of the Navy exposed their medical convictions regarding the ideal way of maintaining the health of the military facing various adversities imposed on seafarers when traveling. Such situation highlighted the importance of medical knowledge in the institution and legitimized it, turning doctors into more than professionals who were devoted to healing, as they would also have in their repertoire the control of the bodies of Navy personnel with ways to maximize their performance on board. Among various aspects regarding practices and behaviors that would enable physical and moral health for the crew, was the consumption of alcoholic beverages by sailors, especially sugar cane brandy. It was argued that the moderate consumption of cachaça by seafarers facing the exhaustive work to which they were exposed would be healthy, inasmuch as its composition was stimulating and refreshing, in addition to being necessary for the organism in colder climates. Nevertheless, such a compliment to cachaça was not an ode to pleasure or sociability, but rather a speech that gave the doctor control over such consumption, which would prescribe the amount and the moment when the “spirit drink” should be used. Having the approaches to the standardization of the bodies and the rise of medical knowledge as a theoretical motto, this article will discuss the focus given by surgeons of the Brazilian Navy to the consumption of brandy by the Navy military in the 19th century.
Copyright (c) 2020 Sergio Willian de Castro Oliveira Filho
Malungo’s stigma and experience: the tavern drinking culture
This article presents partial results of a PhD research on the history of taverns in Brazil and makes an initial effort to reflect about alcohol consumption practices in those spaces as well as in their surroundings. Based on the critic of a stereotype according to which alcohol consumption by enslaved groups was associated with sin, addiction and disease, I investigate their drinking practices using the concept of “drinking culture”. The tavern was one of the spaces where these practices took place, as well as the slave quarters and yards. In this sense, taverns were also a kind of other nest to formation of identities and non-violent resistances constituted by diasporic Africans.
Copyright (c) 2020 Lucas Endrigo Brunozi Avelar
On December 4, 5 and 6, 2019, we occupied the auditoriums and classrooms of the University of São Paulo, Brazil, with lectures, roundtables, and paper sessions dedicated to discussing “food” from various perspectives, from the history of famine in the Middle Ages to the ways in which digital media and advertising have been approaching the subject in recent times. We gathered researchers, professors and students from the Amazon to Rio Grande do Sul, Bahia, Goiás, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and even Paris and Bern, Switzerland. We brought in specialists from Spain (food anthropologist Jesús Contreras), from France (food historian Bruno Laurioux), from the United States (historian and museum curator Shirley Wajda). We have put together a rich schedule (available at spalimenta.hypotheses.org), counteracting all the trends of this Brazilian political year of 2019, marked by lamentable cuts, or “contingencies,” exactly in the education sector.
From 1st to 17th centuries, spices have been a commodity as well as a necessity for the Western Europe. These “aromatic items of commerce with a high unit cost... imported from distant lands”, as they are defined by Paul Freedman, included many dry products that were mainly culinary ingredients, but also perfumes of high quality which could be used in cooking. Most of spices were supposed to have medical properties too: they were drugs, in the wide meaning that the Ancient Medicine gave to this term. The medical impacts of spices partly explain how, in 14th and 15th centuries, Far East spices offered the wider range of tastes and scents that European cuisine has ever known. But even when the French Cuisine has got rid of eastern spices from the middle of the 17th century, these ones remained quite important in a medicine that kept alive the principles of the Ancient Medicine. How the changing tastes affected the discourse on spices? We will answer this question through a long-term study of cook recipes, medical instructions and travel writings.
La historia de la humanidad ha sido, en buena medida, la de la búsqueda de recursos o soluciones para resolver los problemas del hambre, cuantitativa (alimentos) o cualitativa (nutrientes). Gracias a las tecnologías actuales, podría pensarse que la producción y productividad alimentaria han aumentado de tal manera que el hambre podría haber sido totalmente erradicada. Por otro lado, gracias a la investigación biomédica, la prevención de las enfermedades derivadas de la alimentación es hoy más posible que nunca. Podría decirse que estamos frente a un “nuevo orden alimentario”. Sin embargo, a pesar de la sobreabundancia, persiste el hambre; y la ciudadanía, no parece estar convencida de reducir la alimentación a su dimensión nutricional. En efecto, los beneficios de la abundancia alimentaria se hacen menos obvios cuando, por una parte, se pone en duda la calidad de los alimentos producidos y cuando, por otra, se convierte en posible causa de enfermedades y riesgos de diverso alcance. El cambio alimentario tropieza, pues, con una cierta insatisfacción de la ciudadanía confrontada a unos alimentos “industriales”, que los encuentra insípidos, faltos del sabor de antaño e, incluso, peligrosos. Ello coincide, paradójicamente, con el aumento de las reglamentaciones sobre higiene y políticas de calidad puestas en marcha por las autoridades políticas y sanitarias. Por otra parte, muchas de las que fueron soluciones alimentarias en el pasado han tenido “efectos colaterales” que hoy parecen inaceptables por razones de salud, de sostenibilidad ambiental o de desigualdad social. Además, los desarrollos recientes de la tecnología o de la industria alimentaria han perturbado la doble función identificadora de lo culinario – la identificación del alimento y la construcción de la identidad del sujeto. Así, la progresiva globalización alimentaria provoca una “nostalgia” relativa a los “patrimonios culinarios”. La cocina constituye un patrimonio cultural. La patrimonialización alimentaria se produce en el contexto del conjunto de las transformaciones socioeconómicas contemporáneas y de sus repercusiones en los comportamientos y en las ideas relativas a la alimentación. Identidad y/o patrimonio son nuevos “recursos” de la modernidad y de usos polivalentes. Ya no se trata de producciones mundiales que pierden progresivamente la huella de su lugar de origen sino de productos que, por el contrario, lo encarnan y se espera de ellos que evoquen un territorio, un paisaje, unas costumbres, una identidad.
Consumption, acquisition and detention for the consumption of drugs
The objective of this research is to present a historical and sociological reflection on This article aims to analyze critically and comparatively the public policy of drugs that are adopted both in Brazil and in Portugal. With the adoption of the method of bibliographic review, we have hypothesized that respect for democratic values will only be possible in Brazilian territory when the current public policy in criminal matters undergoes profound changes, based on the Portuguese model. Finally, we conclude that, although it is not perfect, the model adopted in Portugal is the one closest to a substantial Democratic State of Law.
Copyright (c) 2019 Francisco de Assis de França Júnior
The present article analyzes the representation of alcohols in the cinema in relation to the advance of the prohibitionist discourse committed in transforming alcohol consumption into pathology. We will see how from the beginning of the twentieth century, filmmakers such as the Frenchman Ferdinand Zecca and the American D.W. Griffith adopted in their films a moralizing discourse aimed at frightening the working class by propagating the dangers of abusive alcohol consumption. In a next moment, we will see how the subject will be treated satirically by comedians like Charles Chaplin and Roscoe Fatty Arbuckle, in exploring the theme of alcoholism in the wealthier classes, tree years before the promulgation of the Volstead Law (1919). Finally, we will understand how in the early 1930s the unfolding of Volstead Law (1933) will be treated in the movies not only by gangster movies, but also in comedies such as What! No Beer? (1933), in which Buster Keaton and Jimmy Durante, a duo of beverage activists and entrepreneurs, one month before the repeal of the law. Taken together, we intend to demonstrate how the cinema of these three specific moments constitutes an excellent source of historical research for the study of current discourses in society of which these films are at the same time social expression, entertainment and propaganda.
Copyright (c) 2019 Rafael Morato Zanatto
The objective of this research is to present a historical and sociological reflection on Non-Conventional Food Plants (PANC) based on two central axes. First, we discuss the marginal importance of PANC in the hegemonic food model as the leitmotiv for a critical re-reading of the “omnivore paradox,” as formulated by Claude Fischler. By differentiating the contradictory reasons that oppose or favor the inclusion of these plants in the chains of production and consumption, we adopt a type of theoretical-methodological procedure that confers greater historicity and concreteness to the discussions about the dynamic frontiers of the “edible”. Secondly, we present the experience of the PANC-Bahia Network as an original modality of food activism that develops a series of strategies oriented by the valorization of the socio-biodiversity with the purpose of contributing to the expansion of the cultivation of PANC and its greater insertion in the diets of rural and urban populations.
Copyright (c) 2019 Luiz Enrique Vieira de Souza, José Geraldo de Aquino Assis
Launched in March 2019, Ingesta appeared in the academic scene in a special edition, restricted to articles by professors and researchers invited especially for its debut. In its second issue, which we published in December of the same year, instead of finally getting into what will be our routine, we insisted on another special edition: in addition to four articles, we included here a notebook with over 100 abstracts of all papers presented at the II International Symposium on Food Research: circuits of production and consumption, held at the University of São Paulo from December 4th to 6th, 2019. This may prove how the field of Food and Drug History has been growing - at least in what depends on the efforts of the Laboratory for Historical Studies on Drugs and Food, LEHDA-USP, which is responsible for both this publication and the organization of the symposium, in partnership to Comida na Cabeça, Museu Paulista and the Postgraduate Program in Social History from the University of São Paulo.
Copyright (c) 2019 Viviane Soares Aguiar, Nicole Leite Bianchini
Iansã's acará at the Saint Barbara festival
This article approaches the eating habits at the centenary festival of Saint Barbara, which takes place annually in Salvador, Brazil, on December 4th. In addition to addressing the traditional caruru offered in honor of the saint, the text aims to highlight the presence of the acará in the celebrations. Thanks to the Afro-Diasporic influence, the white-European original devotion gained elements of African origins when arriving in the Bahian capital, and palm oil- based foods are undisputed proof. And even though Afro-Catholic syncretism has brought Saint Barbara closer to the Iansã orixá, the deities are revered with different foods. In clarifying this apparent divergence, the work demonstrates the importance of acarajé at the December 4th festival and the African heritage of celebrating with food. To assist in the discussion about popular parties in Salvador, Afro-Bahian cuisine and religious syncretism, the text dialogued with authors such as Edilece Couto (2015), Manuel Querino (2006) and Pierre Verger (1999). Based on literature review, journal research and participant observation, the article highlights the relevance of commensality in the popular religious festival that began in the 17th century and remains alive today. Thus, the text shows how certain foods were consolidated as constitutive elements of the Saint Barbara festival in Salvador.
Copyright (c) 2019 Vagner José Rocha Santos
A comunicação propõe refletir sobre a denominada “imaterialidade” de construções culturais identitárias, especificamente, observando a tradição artesanal dos modos de fazer queijo arte- sanal em Minas Gerais. Contrapõe essa ideia do “imaterial” a um repertório de valores fundamentados em cotidiano material, dele parte inseparável, interpretando uma vivência, onde artefatos instrumentais, saberes, práticas rotineiras e experiências complexas denotam os limites da ideia de “patrimônio imaterial”. Reflete, ainda, sobre a memória e a dinâmica experiencial de homens e de mulheres envolvidos no processo. Elas apontam para saberes e práticas manuais que, ao serem pensadas teoricamente, apresentam um repertório complexo de atos e de valores associados ao modo de fazer artesanal do queijo de Minas. Evidencia que tal complexidade fragiliza a síntese convencional do termo “imaterial” na reflexão sobre as culturas.
Copyright (c) 2019 José Newton Coelho Meneses
Deculturing Indians to make them Indians
O mito original da culinária brasileira nos diz que seu processo de formação começa em 1500, com o consumo gradativo de uma alimentação “miscigenada”. Ele nega que haja cozinha que possa ser chamada “brasileira” antes do descobrimento. Em outras palavras, lhe é indiferente o que os índios comiam. Assim, uma moderna consciência descolonizada precisa reconstruir o passado arqueológico de centenas de povos originais como substrato básico a partir do qual se formou a culinária atual – considerando o comer indígena em suas diferenças culturais, regionais e locais anteriores à chegada dos portugueses.
In search of Brazilians’ emancipation at the table
Este trabalho resulta de um recorte e união de duas pesquisas de doutorado intituladas O papel da informação no resgate da cultura alimentar brasileira: uma análise do catálogo Arca do Gosto e Movimentos sociais e Tipologia Documental: estudo de caso do acervo documental do Movimento dos Trabalhadores Rurais Sem Terra (MST). A partir da análise dos estudos de caso em questão, busca-se refletir aqui a respeito de um ponto comum a ambas pesquisas: a relação entre a defesa de políticas públicas voltadas para questão agrária, consumo e produção de alimentos por parte dos movimentos Slow Food e MST, valorizando a produção da agricultura familiar e o resgate de hábitos saudáveis e sustentáveis da alimentação brasileira. Slow Food e MST atuam como importantes mediadores na área da alimentação, exercendo influência nos hábitos de consumo da população a partir do desenvolvimento de políticas públicas e uma agricultura sustentável. Trata-se de movimentos que pregam, entre outras coisas, a valorização da agricultura familiar para o desenvolvimento social e econômico do país. Nesse processo, o consumo se faz como um fator de extrema importância, pois é a partir dele que o circuito de produção se concretiza e integra diversos setores da sociedade. Contudo, na atualidade, os indivíduos se encontram presos às armadilhas da alienação da mídia e do agronegócio, que influenciam e regulamentam o mercado consumidor. Em defesa da biodiversidade, da emancipação do consumidor e uma agricultura sustentável, o Slow Food trabalha com a Arca do Gosto, um catálogo promovido pelo movimento e que seleciona alimentos em risco de extinção a partir da indicação da população, com base em critérios pré-estabelecidos, e o MST realiza ações referentes a questões agrárias nacionais e da estruturação de políticas públicas para o uso social da terra. Nesse sentido, a Arca do Gosto trata de uma seleção de alimentos tradicionais em risco de desaparecer, que informa a população a respeito da importância desses alimentos, e o MST promove ações de acessibilidade universal a uma alimentação saudável. Dessa forma, ambos os movimentos fomentam a preservação da cultura local, a segurança alimentar, a salvaguarda da biodiversidade e estimulam o consumo dos mesmos e da agricultura familiar. Em complemento ao alerta que a Arca do Gosto oferece à população em relação à neces- sidade de se consumir e proteger alimentos tradicionais, temos as ações do MST pela reforma agrária justa. O MST também age em direção à busca por um futuro onde cada um possa consumir o alimento de seu território. O respeito ao território tende a contribuir com a preservação dos hábitos alimentares, espécies e cultivares tradicionais, pois cada região possui seus modos de preparo e cada espécie/cultivar tem sua origem em um bioma distinto.
Copyright (c) 2019 Gabrieli Aparecida da Fonseca, Jean Marcel Caum Camoleze
O tabaco esteve entre as commodities a ter rápida difusão global na Era Moderna, a partir das navegações e interações dos europeus com os povos dos demais continentes conhecidos então. Nativo da América, onde era consumido pelos povos originários de várias partes do continente, cerca de um século depois da chegada de Colombo ao Novo Mundo, o tabaco já era conhecido em várias partes da Europa, África, Oriente Médio e Leste Asiático. Neste périplo global, a erva passou de elemento ritualístico a commodity: vendido, trocado, taxado e produzido nas quatro partes do mundo, ganhou a preferência de homens e, em menor medida, mulheres, de todas as camadas sociais. Indivíduos de diversas idades mascavam, aspiravam e/ou fumavam, principalmente, o tabaco das Américas, nas suas diversas variedades. Assim, essa commodity, que conquistava as pessoas pelo paladar, olfato, tato e visão, tornou-se intensamente negociada e difundida nas sociedades que com ela tiveram contato. Proponho-me a abordar essa difusão, destacando seus diversos condicionantes, desde a produção ao consumo do tabaco.
A vida cotidiana das escolas públicas brasileiras é marcada pela diversidade social, cultural, política e econômica que constitui o Brasil. O sistema de Ensino Básico é formado por escolas quilombolas, indígenas, do campo e urbanas que são caracterizadas por especificidades que buscam ser mantidas diante dos desafios de políticas públicas educacionais comuns. No início do século XX, em meio aos projetos de formação da nação brasileira, dois grandes problemas precisavam ser enfrentados, a educação e a fome, e que estavam intrinsicamente relacionados à pobreza e à desnutrição, fazendo com que a constituição histórica do sistema público de Ensino Básico fosse acompanhada de um sentido assistencialista. Neste contexto, a alimentação escolar ocupou um complexo lugar dentro da cultura escolar brasileira. A partir desta breve introdução, apresentamos a alimentação escolar como o tema problematizador desta apresentação, que está integrada a uma pesquisa em andamento e intitulada História da alimentação escolar no Brasil (séculos XX-XXI): reflexões sobre políticas públicas educacionais, cultura alimentar e campo. De modo geral, essa pesquisa vem estudando a historicidade da alimentação escolar no contexto da estruturação e consolidação da Educação Básica no Brasil, considerando a alimentação como um ato marcado por aspectos que são econômicos, políticos, ambientais, culturais, sociais e também educacionais, sendo, portanto, um lugar de resistência cultural, como pontuou Jean-Pierre Poulain, na obra Sociologia da alimentação: os comedores e o espaço social alimentar (2002). No entanto, como a alimentação escolar no Brasil, ainda profundamente marcada por características assistencialistas e pouco vinculada à garantia de um direito, se apresenta nas atuais políticas públicas para a educação no Brasil? Destacaremos a trajetória do Programa Nacional de Alimentação Escolar (PNAE), problematizando questões que vão além da educação nutricional e consideram a educação alimentar na sua relação com a vida social e identitária das comunidades escolares. Identificamos, assim, que boa parte das políticas públicas para a alimentação escolar destaca e evidencia o que o sujeito vai comer, mas pouco considera o sujeito que come, desvinculando a complexa cadeia dos sujeitos que produzem, comercializam, preparam e consomem. Se, por um lado, as políticas educacionais proporcionam esses desajustes, por outro, também geram ressignificações e lutas. Por fim, a partir de um levantamento bibliográfico interdisciplinar, esta apresentação busca mostrar como a alimentação escolar, na consolidação da Educação Básica no Brasil, vem se construindo como um espaço de disputas econômicas e políticas, mas, sobretudo, como um território sociocultural de resistência.
Copyright (c) 2019 Adriana Angelita da Conceição